长期以来，我梦想着1930年代40年代的Supperclubs回来了。我知道他们不会：谁能负担得起带有舞池的大型餐厅/酒吧空间，为初学者，晚上的音乐家少得多？即使在20年前在旧金山和纽约市的盛装风格的酒吧播出了一场好，以及特定时代的宝石，例如SFStookey's Club Moderne在1930年代，Supperclubs仍不是一回事，尽管前洛杉矶弹出窗口大型乐队和周末跳舞，但尝试了更大的Supper Club体验。我喜欢电影的经典自我仍然梦想着穿着礼服和老式的皮毛外出，在双门轿跑车上品尝马提尼酒或香槟，看着大乐队，舞者，歌手，偶尔自己在舞池上“旋转”，一位绅士，当然，在燕尾服中。

Lyon & Swan（L＆S）不是那种晚餐俱乐部。Butthis North Beach newcomer (opened November 10, 2022) is a special entertainment while dining and drinking experience. Hidden downstairs from the new Sonoma-basedEco Terreno Urban Tasting Room在哥伦布大道上，楼上有一个小型葡萄酒生产设施和老化的水箱，主楼上有葡萄酒室。L＆S比1940年代的大餐小得多，但它的亲密关系更像是1950年代至60年代时尚的爵士酒吧，尽管比纽约市的狭窄传奇更宽敞乡村先锋。They offer live entertainment, heavy on musicians but also including drag queens, cabaret singers and comedians.

最令人兴奋的是自巴巴里海岸时代以来三层楼的娱乐俱乐部的历史。从1918年到1922年，L＆S是木星，一个“黑人和棕褐色”俱乐部，欢迎黑白顾客。当我read that it was opened by Jelly Roll Mortonhimself, my jazz baby heart longs to time travel. Then in the 1930s, the space was home to Mona’s, purportedly the first lesbian bar in the city, maybe even the West Coast. But the space is most famous for its long run from the 1950s through 2012 as the Purple Onion. First a beatnik mainstay, it was Mrs. Maisel-style comedy central for the likes of Richard Pryor, Lenny Bruce, the Smothers Brothers, Phyllis Diller, even Maya Angelou, alongside best-of-their-day musicians like Andy Williams, The Irish Rovers and the Kingston Trio.

我感觉到过去一个世纪以“文艺复兴时期的人”丹（Dan）的历史和天才，在受到亲切酒店导演Dawn Agnew and Team的欢迎后，我走下楼梯。这个空间足够光滑，感觉像是在镇上的夜晚，但放松了。桌子嗡嗡作响，一位独奏音乐家时，对话，Daniel Berkman，用Mellotron和Gravikord（Kora的电动版本，21弦的西非竖琴）打开了夜晚。头条新闻是Jeovani Abenoja, crooning Christmas tunes to jazz standards with classic ease, alongside gifted pianist,Ken Muir。这是爵士乐俱乐部，在您用餐和sip时，一部分是寒意的小夜曲。

The space was gutted and designed byStudioHeimat, with exposed concrete giving it a modern-industrial look, contrasted by soothing tones of gray, green, orange and brown; a gorgeous onyx bar under futuristic chandeliers and a fireplace. Leather banquettes feel especially supperclub-y, allowing for a romantic date or cozy conversation.

L&S was opened by Mark Lyon, owner of nearby biodynamic, organicEco Terreno Wines and Vineyardsin Alexander Valley, which he launched post-retirement as longtime winemaker of pioneeringSebastiani Vineyards。In 2018, Lyon bought the striking North Beach building with Eco Terreno CEO Rob Izzo. As Lyon is one of the first openly-gay leaders in the California wine industry, the space’s history not only resonated but matched their values.

厨师乔·鲍尔（Joe Ball）（传奇人物Folie的前长期厨师de Cuisine）菜单全球运行，尽管他们称其为Cal-French Cuisine。食物比我在娱乐场所期望的要好得多，那里经常想到食物和饮料。首先，我是Crudo的傻瓜，他的茴香壳Crudo和Yuzu Kosho，普通话橘子，粉红色的葡萄柚和婴儿萝卜片点缀着，就像我希望的那样明亮而柔滑。浓酱的阳光汤与辣椒汤相对，与甜味的葡萄干，辣椒油和鲜红色的辣椒 - 辣椒 - 糖 - 糖 - 糖果实形成鲜明对比。

墨西哥湾虾remoulade可能是我最喜欢的菜。我是经典新奥尔良菜的长期奉献者，但是在这里，厨师球巧妙地使其在remoulade和waseabi root aioli中巧妙地切成丁，浓郁而凉爽，搭配jicama片，可用于紧缩和腌制的樱桃辣椒，以获得酸性甜味。我希望我可以在常规上吃沙拉。沙拉比比皆是：烤的传家宝甜菜，柿子，红藜麦和芥末蔬菜沙拉在酪乳和雪利酒醋中；或温暖的朝鲜蓟沙拉，用草药，软煮鸡蛋和酱汁烤。

Slices of Spanish octopus are warmly nurturing over Italian butter beans, lively with salsa verde and black garlic. Tender pork belly pastrami was maybe my other top dish, with Germanic feels (with a touch of Alsace: French Germanic) over warm cabbage salad, punctuated with pickled mustard seeds and apple slivers.

French vibes were present (with Italian influence) in dissolve-in-your-mouth ricotta and herb gnudi, wild mushrooms and nantes carrots in brown butter bisque. Two pieces of McFarland Springs rainbow trout with appropriately crispy skin were stacked over braised fennel and sunchokes, dotted with bacon, juniper oil and foamy grapefruit sabayon. By this point, we had no room for dessert, but appreciated the savory dishes over a comfortable couple hours of live music.

Beverage director Matteo Villano hails from Italy and I was delighted to find has assembled a strong wine list. Chatting with him, I was delighted that he included some of my beloved under-the-radar wine regions I’ve traveled to/written about over the years, likeGalicia, Spain，一个紧密起泡的葡萄酒/香槟区（包括欢迎的半瓶，例如Domaine Mann Crémant d’Alsace或者Lebeau-Batiste Champagne Brut Tradition）和橙葡萄酒的宝藏2021 Croci Valtolla Bianco Malvasia Aromaticafrom another favorite region:Emilia Romagna, Italy。

在鸡尾酒的一面，紫色洋葱吉布森（Gibson）是紫色洋葱的正确点头，蒙娜娜（Mona）的1930年代时代具有经典的马提尼族（Martini）变体：吉布森（Gibson）。这里，Empress 1908 Ginmakes sense with马提尼·比安科苦艾酒, lemon essence and the Gibson’s signature pearl onion garnish. Other plays off classics show up, like a Pink Lady (主教的伊甸园苹果白兰地,福特的杜松子酒，柠檬糖浆，蛋清，肉桂粉粉）或瓦哈卡·内格罗尼（Oaxaca Negroni）。蒙娜的歌比我预期的（再次是现场音乐场所）更有趣和平衡，结合了Pueblo Viejo Tequila,Aperol,吉法德大黄利口酒，这种饮料的矿物质豆腐味引起了玫瑰水和粉红色胡椒粉装饰的雾气。

总而言之，现场娱乐场所的质量令人惊讶地高，可以欣赏技巧的舒适食品，酒吧葡萄酒的葡萄酒极客可以欣赏。当表演者有多个套装时，通常可以有两个晚餐座位，或者在一个晚上有多个演艺人员，因此在大约55个座位上迅速填充空间时进行预订。

自从我经典的电影童年时代以来，我就梦想着我梦dream以求的盛大的1940年代晚餐俱乐部，但是L＆S是SF的巨大胜利，我们在Grand Dame Jazz Hall上拥有特别的亲密地点，SF Jazz： 终极的Club Deluxe和Royal Cuckoo Organ Lounge, but alsoBlack Cat,Mr. Tipple’s和newcomers likeKeys Jazz Bistro（我尚未访问）。Lyon＆Swan除了超越爵士乐之外，还比我在这里或其他任何城市中看到的现场音乐场所都在美食和饮料方面的质量更好。

// 140哥伦布大道，www.lyonandswan.com