自2009年以来托尼的比萨仙人掌has been the best all-around pizza restaurant in the U.S. I’d even say world, in terms of the place that perfects all major (and some minor) styles of pizza. Many may consider these fighting words, but other pizza lovers and critics have said the same as I.

我还没有看到任何人接近托尼·吉尼尼（Tony Gemignani）对多种披萨的精通，包括纽约，那不勒斯，泽西岛/特伦顿番茄派，西西里人，圣路易斯，芝加哥和底特律风格。I’m no stranger to these categories, consuming literally thousands of pizzas in my adult years, including my many travels in Italy, all over the U.S. and globe — not to mention my years growing up in north New Jersey just outside NYC, both pizza havens. My young years in Kansas City, MO, touched on St. Louis pizza, while half my Miller relatives have lived in Detroit my whole life. And I live in a damn great pizza town itself: San Francisco.

Gemignani在披萨制作中赢得了13个世界冠军，包括意大利世界披萨杯的世界冠军比萨饼制造商, the first American and non-Neapolitan to ever do so. Tony’s has在全球顶级披萨餐厅之一并在美国最好的披萨列表中排名第一50个顶级披萨（2021年的＃1,＃2在2022年在纽约市的Una Pizza Napoletana之后，在SF工作了几年，很棒，但磨练了一种披萨风格：Neapolitan）。所有的赞誉都得到了艰苦的细节的支持，吉尼亚尼（Gemignani）完善了每种披萨，包括每种样式的不同烤箱，面粉和番茄来源。他经过训练和发射a whole generation of great pizzaiolos, including Capo’s former head chef劳拉·迈耶（Laura Meyer），现在是三届世界披萨冠军herself, who is set to open her ownPizzeria da Laura in Berkeley in early 2023.

I’ve called his pizzas best anywhere since Tony’s debuted, alongsideCapo的，他于2012年11月17日开业，刚刚通过了10周年。两人都在北海滩彼此之间的几个街区，卡普（Capo）的芝加哥披萨店关节，当他们在大流行之后重新开放2020年夏季时，加上了底特律风格的比萨饼。托尼（Tony）的披萨拿破仑（TPN）为所有其他披萨风格提供服务，其中包括特伦顿/球衣风格的番茄派，“最佳”在我在新泽西州的青少年时代成长。当我第一次以番茄呈纯度品尝时，我几乎哭了。

These days, Detroit-style pizza has trended all over the nation — and Tony was doing it long before at TPN since 2009. Over the years, as the style became widely popular, there have been numerous excellent spots for Detroit pizza in town, especially方派的家伙,Cellarmaker House of Pizza和good, but not as excellent as those two,Joyride和派朋克. And when it comes to superb Chicago deep dish, there are far fewer who perfect it (locally the other deep dish “kings” would be longtimeLittle Star和East Bay legend for decades,Zachary’s).

But even in thegreat food city of Chicago，在过去的15年中，我一直在研究，除了所有深盘传奇人物和其他许多人都吃了。我找到了nonethat compare even with SF’s top three I just mentioned, especially Tony’s (up till now,Pequod’s我在芝加哥的情况越好，而许多传奇的景点对软糖奶酪，淡淡的皮和番茄酱完全不利。

So when我首次访问了卡波（Capo）2012年底，这是一个启示。实际上，托尼（Tony）和团队不仅钉上了深盘，而且还钉了所有历史悠久的芝加哥披萨风格：铸铁锅，塞满和饼干薄薄。Consulting four of Chicago’s legendary pizza families — Marc Malnati of Lou Malnati’s, Leo Spitziri of Giordano’s, Jeff Stolfe from Connie’s, Tony Troiano of JB Alberto’s — Tony installed three ovens for the Chicago pies back when Capo’s opened: one wood-fired and two brick, heated to different degrees. They were the only West Coast restaurant using Ceresota flour from one of Illinois’ oldest mills, a staple of Chicago’s revered pizzerias. Similarly, Tony’s Detroit pies perfected historic Detroit technique, cooked in 10” x 14” Detroit steel pans, topped with Wisconsin brick mozzarella cheese and white cheddar, sporting that perfect parmigiano crust on the underside.

While pizza is what you come for, there are other “OMG good” delights at Capo’s, including spot-on, thinly shaved Italian beef (another Chicago classic, here in sandwich form and on my fave Italian Stallion pizza), house-made Calabrese sausages in spicy honey and mostaccioli (all hail the vodka cream sauce version with Calabrese peppers).

Cozy, rustic and festive as the Tony’s Pizza space is, I prefer the old school American-Italian vibes of Capo’s with its brick walls, cork floors, hand-painted tin ceiling, Art Deco-inspired bar (custom built by Tony and Neapolitan-born carpenter Ricardo Jacobus), red booths, Prohibition-era memorabilia, 1950s-60s hubcaps (nodding to Tony’s classic car love and personal collection; he restored a 1950 chop-top Mercury tributing Capo’s) and an original Detroit teamster 299 jacket. Photos of infamous Detroit and Chicago mobsters line the space, including the obvious Chicago mobster with SF connections: Al Capone.

The Capone booth sports Capone’s poker chips, matchbooks, whiskey bottles and more under a glass tabletop. I adore the mural above the Capone booth of Adolf Restaurant, housed in the Capo’s space circa 1960’s, discovered and restored as they built out Capo’s. From day one, this space felt as if it had been here for decades, entirely at home — as are all of Tony’s spots — in the neighborhood. From his superb bagel shop and Italian bakery,Toscano Brothers/Dago Bagel, to Italian grocery,Giovanni Italian Specialties，以他的儿子命名，吉尼亚尼（Gemignani）肯定是该市最欧洲最重要的北部海滩（North Beach）的主要人物closed pizza schoolupstairs from the original Tony’s.

Dan, “The Renaissance Man,” and I returned to Capo’s with my sister and brother-in-law on an early December night to celebrate Christmas and my xmas day birthday. As we have done over past visits bringing family and friends, we took home more than half our food from the large, dense portions. We feasted and laughed, in a deluge of red wine and red sauce.

Though we had too much breading coming, we couldn’t resist Capo’s garlic-heavy garlic bread. The meatballs (also in sandwich form) are always a tender delight, the ‘njdua (spicy pork spread) crostini is blessed with salty anchovies, while baked artichokes are decadent swimming in spinach and provolone cream. Seasonal fried ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms were the definition of dissolve-in-your-mouth. Capo’s nails classic Caesar salad. Ditto a mixed greens salad laden with dried cherries, gorgonzola, candied walnuts and red onions in bright cherry prosecco vinaigrette. The aforementioned mostaccioli alla vodka remains my favorite non-pizza dish.

但是回到披萨。很难出错。与任何类型的外壳/样式混合您首选的披萨食谱。在某些方面，我最适合芝加哥风格的经典红色顶级玛格丽塔比萨饼，因为它最好地允许托尼的手工艺品的纯度 - 外壳，奶酪和“甜蜜的梦想是由这些”红酱制成的 - 发光。

My all-time favorite Capo’s pizzas, however, include award-winning Cal Italia, a white pie originally (and still) at Tony’s Pizza and worth ordering in any form. This combo of gorgonzola, asiago, parmigiano, imported fig preserves, prosciutto di Parma and balsamic reduction is a Tony classic. But the Italian Stallion likewise deserves to be so. Another white pie, I find this one best in Chicago cracker-thin form to partner with that thinly sliced Italian beef. This crispy, meaty combo is enhanced by crumbled Chicago-Italian sausage, chives, oregano, spicy-sweet peppers and the clincher: horseradish cream sauce. Flour-based crust gains texture from a dusting of cornmeal, while a key to its impeccable taste and crunch is European butter and a bit of lard.

我的底特律风格的第一选择（再次，您可以在每种样式中获得任何披萨）是Deville，它出现在菜单上，因为Capo在2020年加入了底特律的重点，但我首先在Tony's中得到了重点。这是红酱天堂，与soppressata picante和'nduja猪肉果酱巧妙地分层。肉质的精华偷看，但并没有使番茄酱压倒。当地的蜂蜜和热红辣椒油会增加甜味的对比度，而芝麻菜，马苏里拉奶酪和Parmigiano奶酪则围绕它。地狱，yes.

鸡尾酒是坚实的，经典的，并且是由Elmer Mejicanos最初推出的菜单（他一直在附近创建菜单的菜单Red Window和25 Lusk). Think a simple but crushable Artichoke King cocktail of bourbon,Cynar（历史悠久的意大利苦涩的阿马罗（Amaro）和植物学在内），柠檬，葡萄柚和迷迭香苦味。威士忌在烈酒/酒吧的一面占据主导地位，在草稿上有八种当地啤酒，葡萄酒清单再次是坚固的，对意大利和加利福尼亚红色的红色，非常适合所有有福的红酱和肉类。

我每年在600多家餐厅进行研究时，我参观了Capo的第一个月的三次，而且几次，因为我没有在任何地方进行常规的奢侈。但是多年来，我尝试了Capo菜单上的每道菜。尽管我有自己的最爱，但大多数菜单都超过了15年的芝加哥深盘研究和底特律风格的菜单。这是我梦dream以求的完美外壳和红色酱汁。betway娱乐官网

Capo的is an ode to Chicago, Detroit和对于旧金山丰富的意大利裔美国人移民历史来说，这是该社区深层意大利的根源，社区和自由精神。SF继续领导创新的美食和边界厨师，但我们也有无数的餐厅磨练经典和荣耀传统。

托尼（Tony）和他的团队继续在各种披萨中创造出值得口潮的创意派，但它们以传统，区域差异，优质成分以及对完美的奉献精神扎根。最重要的是，它们以令人垂涎的，完全值得的，热量的美味为中心。第二天早晨，披萨味在炉子上升温，因为它在前一天晚上从烤箱中崭露头角。Capo的10周年快乐。

// 641 Vallejo街，https://sfcapos.com